Monday, April 20, 2009

Soccer trip and other adventures

Going back a bit, I took 15 girls aged 8 to 12 to the National Games in Soccer for Elementary schools in Chimaltenango, about 5 hours from El Chol. The trip was a huge success! I had two official adult chaperones go with me and a few other parents go as well. It was a wonderful opportunity for the girls since the Ministry of Education paid for the trip and covered transportation, lodging, and food. We slept on the floor of a school there and ate all our meals cafeteria style with the hundreds of kids who were participating. It was actually the first time in all my time in this country that I have seen any food service worker use gloves. It was a trying since most of the time there was no water…so the toilets couldn’t flush and there was no where to wash your hands. There were pilas, but the girls washed their hair there and then the water got nasty. I didn’t bathe myself for the four days of the trip.
Like I said, it was trying. I was responsible for coordinating all the logistics with the driver of the bus, all the paperwork, getting meal tickets, figuring out where we needed to be and when, and everything else. Also for keeping track of the girls, making sure everyone had drinking water, that they brushed their teeth, that they ate (and didn´t eat too many sweets), that they had all the pieces of their uniform, taking them to the bathroom in the middle of the night (and listening to one poor little girl’s bowels explode). This trip was the first time that some of the girls had left the town. We left on a Saturday and along the way we stopped at the Dispensa, which is a chain of low cost grocery stores. They never have the opportunity to go to a grocery store and were all wide-eyed and eager to purchase candies and snacks. On Sunday morning there was a parade in which all the participants put on matching t-shirts and walked through the city and traffic was stopped on the Inter-American highway so that all the kids could cross. The parade started in the central park and ended in the Municipal Stadium where the event was inaugurated with the speeches and the National Anthem.
The girls played three games in total: the first against Sololá which we lost 1-5, the next day against Jutiapa (the national champions from the previous year) which we lost 0-11, and the third and most exciting against Chiquimula which we tied 1-1 and then won in penalty kicks. The moment that they won the last game, all the moms were crying and the girls were jumping up and down and screaming in excitement. I imagine they will almost remember that. I think they forgot that they had lost the other games and felt like they were the national champions. When we got back to El Chol, there were firecrackers set off and juices and cookies given by the mayor.
All in all the event was a great chance for the girls to see other parts of their country and meet other kids from all over, to play and feel special and important. I’d say it was part of my primary project by boosting girls´ self esteem to be confident women citizens and participate in their local government, eh? We still practice one afternoon a week and they keep asking me when we are going to take another trip.
13 of the 15 girls were from El Chol and the other two were from nearby Rabinal. Although Rabinal is only 24 km down the road, it is seen as being totally separate “on the other side of the mountains”. It is very different, ethnically (mostly indigenous), culturally (most women wear “corte” the traditional skirts), and linguistically (many people speak the Mayan language Achi). The people from El Chol often do not speak well of the people from Rabinal and there is much prejudice and discrimination. So when the girls from El Chol found out that two girls from Rabinal were going to play with them, oh how they complained and said they didn´t want to play with them and even worse if they wore corte (which it turned out they did). At first they didn´t mingle at all and the girls from Rabinal were very shy and didn´t talk much but by the end of the trip, they were talking and laughing and at least some of the barriers had been broken down, aided by the fact that they played soccer very well and one of them scored the goal in the first game. Guatemala is a complex country and I had never witnesses such overt racism as I have observed here because in the States it is politically incorrect and covert.

I continue to work with the Peace Corps committee on HIV/AIDS education and prevention. At the beginning of March we had our second National HIV/AIDS prevention workshop with the volunteers and their counterparts in which around 75 people participated in the two-day workshop. We gave them training on participatory education, community penetration such as analyzing attitudes, knowledge, and practices of the community related to the subject, the full four hour HIV/AIDS prevention workshop, and action plans of how to implement the training. According to their evaluations, it was another big success.

I keep in touch with my host family from Alotenango and paid them a visit in March and met the new trainee that they have living with them right now. They are such a wonderful family and wonderful friends of mine and it’s nice to always feel so welcome in their home. I gave them the business card of the restaurant where their nephew is working in Bellevue, WA that he gave me when I was home for Christmas. I also gave them a historical book of Alontenango with an old-time photo of a man and a women who died years ago that they had known that I salvaged from the garbage when we were cleaning out the office space for the Women´s Office in El Chol.

This year we saw many changes in the personnel of the Planning Office. We have a new coordinator, who is a woman (my age) who is finishing up her university studies in civil engineering. It is a positive influence on the office, but has been a bit challenging to get the rest of the guys in the office on board. We have a female secretary now too as the guy who was the secretary is now in a different department. We’re bringing the female power to the muni!

Although the main focus of my work this year has been with the Women´s Office, I continue to do projects with and support the Municipal Planning Office. In February we did a self-diagnostic of the COMUDE, the Municipal Development Council, which in its ideal state would be the space for discussion and solution of municipal topics and problems. We split all the participants from the various communities and institutions into focus groups in which they brainstormed and responded to questions and analyzed the functioning of the Council. Afterwards we put all the responses and suggestions into a document and presented the results. Right now we are awaiting a meeting with the city council to address the needs. One of the most pressing issues is that the COMUDE should be divided into work commissions such as health, education, environment, etc. but as of right now they only exist on paper and there is no actual functioning. We hope to improve this problem this year.

It is delightful, delicious mango season! The last time I went to the community La Ciénega to bake bread we made mango bread. The women were thrilled! You make it exactly like banana bread, except instead of mashed ripe bananas, you use a pulp of ripe mangos. It is absolutely delicious! I decided to do this type of bread with them because in that community there are tons of mango trees and they can´t ever eat all the mangos that they give and many fall to the ground and rot, so better to be taking advantage of local resources and putting them into bread.

In March I had to delight of friends from the States coming to visit, my dear dear friend Allie and her boyfriend Matt. We had a lovely time. I picked them up from the airport and we got directly on a chicken bus and headed to El Chol where we spent a few days. They came with me to my English class and also to my soccer practice where they dove right in and played with the girls. They came with me to the feria in the aldea Los Amates where we watched the coronation of the queen of the feria and went to the community dance afterwards where we all danced exuberantly. We then went to Lake Atitlán and stayed in a beautiful hotel overlooking the lake with gorgeous views. It was super fun to have them visit and like always, such a joy for me to show off El Chol and play tour guide in this beautiful country.

The weather has been super hot in El Chol and so we take advantage on the weekends to go play at the river either with my site mate when we BBQ´d hamburgers or with my family that I live with.

Doña Hilda is so sweet and always giving me food. They other day she gave me a dish of cooked beets and some piece of suspicious meat sticking out with a thick tendon attached. When I thanked her for the food, she asked me if I had enjoyed the pig´s foot and I sheepishly told her that I had not. Then the other day I stuck my head in the kitchen to say “good afternoon” and she waved at me with a pair of bloody pig´s feet and motioned to another pair on the table. Shudders went through me and she laughed.

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