AIDS, mid-service, legalizing groups, world map, English clausura, Thanksgiving, feria…I´M COMING HOME SOON!!!

In mid-November our Peace Corps HIV/AIDS committee put on a National HIV/AIDS workshop where various volunteers and their counterparts participated from all over the county in a two-day workshop at the Peace Corps office. The event was a huge success. The idea is to train counterparts not only in up-to-date and accurate information on the subject, but to give them lots of tools and participatory activities that they can use in their communities to replicate the knowledge. I was in a group of rural health workers, so their knowledge was pretty good and we were able to focus on strategies of how to implement the activities in their communities. Since they were from all over, it was a good opportunity for them to discuss their common challenges and share stories as well. Some pretty horrifying things like how in one community there is a microbus full of adolescent boys that leaves every Friday evening for a city where in a certain establishment you can show your student ID and get a discount on the prostitutes that frequent there. There is a long way to go here in HIV/AIDS education. There are lots of cultural barriers that present themselves the complicate the challenge, such as many parents who don’t want any sort of sexual education in the schools and teachers can lose their jobs and be run out of town for touching on these subjects. Or for example as one neighbor put it to me in El Chol, it is the responsibility of the government to make public the list of names of HIV positive people so that everyone else can avoid them and live in peace. As I said, there´s a long way to go. Our committee had a really good productive meeting with the Peace Corps Guatemala Country Director to discuss a future vision for HIV/AIDS work here.

Right after the AIDS workshop my group had our mid-service conference to mark the one year of being in our sites. It was a very productive full day with lots of reflection on the work of the past year and making plans and sharing resources for the upcoming year, which generally seems to be the most productive time in your service. We also had our mid-service medical and dental check-ups which I was relieved to find out that I’m good and healthy and that a sugary diet didn’t leave me with any cavities, and I've somehow managed to avoid or fight off all the bacteria, fungi, parasites, and bugs that one might encounter here.

The other week I had a super busy workweek, definitely the busiest I've had my whole time here. We did the interviews for the Women’s Office coordinator, which I conducted and led with the presence of the two city council members. I was super pleased with two of the women that we interviewed and would be very pleased to have the honor of working with them next year. The only problem now is that I want to have a written contract before the call is made to offer them a job. Work is hard to come by here; there aren’t an abundance of job opportunities. But my coworkers in the muni haven’t been paid in four months and I don’t want to offer someone a salary that is not going to appear. So we are still in negotiations. We also had a meeting with the women’s commission to make advances in the Política Pública that we are creating. And also for our monthly interinstitutional meeting I invited some community leaders to do an analysis of the COMUDE, but there was a bunch of activities happening that day and the mayor was there, with a meeting planned for the same time, so we were having our meeting, when like 15 people showed up in the middle and sort of joined in and there was lots of confusion and then we all crammed into the mayor’s office to meet with him and it was all very stressful and confusing. And I didn’t get the opportunity to hammer out the details of the coordinator of the women’s office, so I have to wait til the next time the City Council meets, which who knows when that will be since we are now in Feria time.

My counterpart called me the other day to tell me that there was a group of women in one of the communities that wanted to organize themselves into a committee and asked me if I would go. So that Sunday afternoon I met up with the woman who had called the meeting and we walk up (and up and up) to the community, which is only accessible on foot. There were about 18 women who showed up, plus all the babies and children in tow. They wanted to legalize a group because only legalized groups can receive projects or benefits. It is a very formal process here in Guatemala to organize and legalize a group…you have to a have a meeting where the representatives are elected, you have to HAND WRITE an official version of the acta (the meeting minutes), in an official book of actas, which everyone has to sign (or put their thumbprint for those who can’t write their name). The official book of actas has to be authorized by the mayor and the municipal secretary, and then the group has to apply to receive an official stamp they have to put on all their documents to make them official. It’s a very exact process. So we went through a voting process, which was difficult because no one wanted to take on an official position and many of them didn’t know how to read and write. Finally we finished the voting process and the COCODE president wrote the acta for us, which took a full hour in which everyone had to linger around for so they could sign their names (or thumbprint) after it had been read. A very interesting experience. So then a few days later the women went to the muni to get their book of actas authorized, at which point it came to attention that the women elected as treasurer couldn’t read or write, which is kind of important for that position, so they couldn’t get authorized yet, and will have to have another meeting to put someone in her place that can read and write.

We are almost finished with our world map project. All the countries and oceans have been painted, now we just need to write the country names and thankyous to the contributors. Having never done a project like this before, we had absolutely no idea how much paint we would need. The hardware stores in town donated everything that we asked for, but we didn’t ask for enough. So we went back and asked for more and were donated a little bit more, but ended up having to front a bunch of the money. The teachers contributed a bit too, but it was still more than we were expecting. It was totally worth it though cause it turned out so cool! Next year when classes start again we are planning on going and teaching some of the games you can play with it. It’s also nice to have done one thing here where you can physically see the results, which is admittedly very satisfying.

I finished up my English class for the year and gave a final test on which everyone did well. We had a clausura (closing ceremony) at my house since they like to do ceremonies for everything. We ate pizza which was for sale for the feria and I baked a cake with homemade chocolate frosting. As is custom, I gave a speech, thanking everyone for their participation and encouraging them to keep studying. As is custom, I gave them each a diploma certifying their participation. They are very into the diplomas here; when you go to apply for a job you have to include with your CV photocopies of all the diplomas you have received for participation in any classes, courses, or trainings and these count significantly towards consideration for hire. I myself have already acquired a neat little stack of them for random one-day trainings and such. As is custom, each person gave some words of thanks to me and to God. It was actually all quite touching and made me feel really good for having taken the time and effort to do the class all year. Being a small group of nine who completed the course, we all got really close. I hope that everyone continues to study next year with me.

Everyone here knows that in the US we celebrate Thanksgiving or “Día de Acción de Gracias” (“Day of Action of Thanks”) and it is interesting to explain the history of the tradition and the irony of it. I made sure to tell the family that I live with that on this day when we pause to give thanks for what we have in our lives, that I include them in my thoughts of thanks. Despite being away from home and missing my family, Thanksgiving Day here was exquisite. We gathered together about 20 of us volunteers and slaughtered a turkey. We really killed a real turkey. One volunteer had purchased it three weeks before Thanksgiving and had been taking care of it. We improvised how to kill it, pluck it, clean it remove all the entrails, and cook it. We had to tie its feet together, pin the wings back, and tie a piece of string around its neck to stretch it out to make sure the machete hit the right spot to cut off the head. The volunteer who bought it was attached, but was also the one to make the fateful hack with the machete to cut off its head. We all screamed at the moment since it was flopping around everywhere and blood was squirting out. Everyone was yelling “Grab it! Grab its legs!” There was quite a bloodstain on the green grass. The headless flapping of the wings eventually ceased, the bleeding from the neck slowed to an occasional drip, and the legs were hacked off with a few more machete swings. We dunked it in a pot of boiling water to open the pores to remove the feathers easier, as we have all witnessed done with chickens in this country. My site mate did most of the organ removal; she was literally up to her elbow in turkey butt. The whole event was all very dramatic and a bit emotionally draining. We all had studied biology/anatomy in high school or college and had a slight idea of what we were doing and some people group had done it the year before and had a bit of experience. We basted it with a delicious basil rub, cooked it to a safe 180 degrees. It turned out delicious and no one got sick! The rest of the food was amazing too. Everyone brought their family´s favorite recipe and went shopping for specialty items in the capital. Someone’s family mailed down a bunch of goods from the States to make the event just like home, including canned cranberry sauce, Stovetop, and Hershey’s chocolates. The boxed wine was not lacking and before eating, we all went around the table and said what we were thankful for, including the two Guatemalans who were present with us. It was a special and memorable Thanksgiving.

It’s feria time! In Santa Cruz El Chol, the titular town fair is in honor of the Most Holy Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception from December 1st – 9th. During this time the town completely changes and becomes busting with commercialism, loud music everywhere and firecrackers going off whenever. The days packed full of competitions, soccer tournaments, and cultural events. The streets become blocked off and impassable with so many tents put up selling food and goods. The central park is filled with two Ferris wheels, games, and foosball tables. It’s the time to take advantage to buy new clothes, kitchen utensils, toys, pirated CDs and DVDs, household items, furniture, and knick-knacks. The festivities are kicked off with the election of the queen of the feria, essentially a full on beauty pagent. It is a big formal event where they build a stage in the market and the entire town comes out to watch. It started at 8 pm, and finished at 3:30 am. Seriously. Each of the candidates has her “fantasy outfit” consisting of some sort of glittery bra and mini skirt and large head piece made with cardboard and feathers, then there is the evening gown, a group dance, and a speech. The group dance has very sexually suggestive choreography and the coverage of the skin is minimal. There is lots of whistling and cat calling from the men drooling from the upper levels of the market. It is a very merry event, and no one seems to have any problem with the social messages that are being conveyed. The following day was the inagural parade in which the members of my office were put in charge of decorating one of the pickups that carried the pageant contestants (a carroza). We started working on it several days before with a western theme, complete with a giant horseshoe made out of PVC pipe and wire, paper cactus, and fake bales of hay made out of all those boxes from the care packages you’ve been sending me being put to good use. So after a late night watching the election I got up at the crack of dawn to help my compañeros finish the carroza. The parade was high class with participation of school bands, dances, acrobatics, horses, morocycles and of course the carrozas. The feria was inaugurated in the blazing sun at mid-day with speeches and lots of course firecrackers. For the dances that take place, it is customary to wear new clothes, so I shopped around and found a new top to debut.

So excited to come home! It’s so soon! Can’t wait to see everyone!!!!

Dia de los Santos, elections, kickboxing

So for All Saints Day, we went to go visit one of my good friends in the town of Todos Santos Cuchumatans in the department of Huehuetenango. It is a very indigenous town in the Western Highlands unique in the fact that everyone that lives there still wears the traditional form of dress, including the men and youth. As a result of the 30 year bloody civil war, lots of people, especially men stopped wearing their traditional clothing. But in Todos Santos it is so cool to see everyone still wearing it. The men wear bright red striped pants and everyone where these small hats with a blue and red band. It’s like the whole town is in uniform. It’s fascinating to see how the youth adapt their clothes by wearing the pants super baggy, ripping the shirts, attaching patches, or wearing Metallica shirts with it. They speak the indigenous language Mam, although most people speak at least a little Spanish it is difficult to communicate. It is SUPER cold there too. It’s clear in the morning and then around noon the clouds roll in and it’s super foggy. Since there is no indoor heating of anything here, you see your breath all day long. You layer many sweaters, and they’re not enough and the water is so cold to wash your hands it burns. November 1st is their feria so there are lots of people that go there for their famous horse riding event, which consists of a bunch of very intoxicated men riding back and forth on the dirt road that goes out of town on a stretch about 200 meters. All day long. Not racing. No winner. Just riding. Every so often one of the guys falls off and there is a big “oohhh” from the crowd. This year the first woman ever participated in the event. She was also intoxicated. The whole event was so interesting. I felt like I was in a whole different country…it’s a different world out there on that side of Guatemala. It was quite the trek to get out there from my site and many uncomfortable hours of chicken bus riding. On the way back, some guy was throwing up on the micro. The driver got really mad and stopped and kicked him out, but demanded that he clean it up first. We were in the in middle of nowhere, so the guy went off into the bushes on the mountainside and collected some yellow wildflowers, which he then used to clean up his own vomit. Priceless.

The elections here were big news! For the days leading up to it, people would greet me with, “who’s gonna win?” and the days following with jubilant comments about how they were pleased with the results. It makes you realize that these elections were not just for our country, but the whole world was really hanging on them. I went to a prayer session the day after for the birthday of one of the señora´s sons who is in the States, and the woman leading it gave a long prayer for Obama that God give me wisdom, courage, and strength so that he would lead our country and the rest of the world in an honorable way. It’s funny to step out of context and think that in some small rural town in Guatemala there are elderly women praying for our soon-to-be president.

My site mate and I are deeply involved with our World Map project now. We are painting a map of the world the size of the entire basketball court in the elementary school in the town. So far we have measured everything out, painted the background all white, and draw the grid lines from which will guide how we draw it all in. We got a bunch of the students from the high school to help us and it looks like its going to turn out really cool!

After meeting with the mayor and a couple members of the City Council again, we finally have begun the process of contracting the coordinator of the new Municipal Women’s and Youth Office to start working in the beginning of January! Yay! A year in waiting and it looks like it’s going to happen! So in order to announce the position, we hand wrote in permanent marker a bunch of posters to put up around town, in the fashion that any important information is disseminated in El Chol. I’ve have lots of women come up to ask me about the job, even one woman came and tracked me down at my house at night while I was washing dishes in my pajamas to ask me about it. Next week we’ll sit down and review the applications and call people in for interviews. I hope this all comes together.

Since the women in my family all have high blood pressure and cholesterol, they are trying to get into working out. So the other day I brought down one of my exercise DVDs that I figured out is dubbed in Spanish and we did a kickboxing workout. It was hilarious! Of course all the kids joined in too. Everyone is extremely uncoordinated but had a great time anyway bopping around and kicking and punching the air at will. Oh I wish I had a video of them to show…

Gifting, gordita, prayer sessions, frustrations of work

The nature of gifting things in Guatemala is very interesting. People here are very generous, even if they don’t have much themselves. There is a strong custom of gifting things and inviting people to eat, meaning that you will pay for them. I’m getting used to this system, but there are subtleties that take a little while to catch onto since they are different from how we do it in the states. Generally, if someone is wearing something pretty, like a pair of earrings for example, saying that you think it is very pretty is kind of like asking for them to give it to you. In Spanish it is better to say that “those earrings look nice on you” because saying “I like your earrings; they are pretty” means that you want them to give them to you. I learned this awhile back when a girl who is part of the family came to visit and I told her that her earrings were pretty, as is a common compliment that we give in the US. She promptly gave me a pair of identical one of a different color that she had bought, even though I protested she insisted. I get a lot of people commenting on the silver rings that I wear, telling me how pretty they are and asking me to gift one to them, so which I have to refuse because…they are my rings. Another example of generosity, if we’re working in the office, and someone leaves to go buy something at the store, they will generally get something for everyone without asking, just to be nice, even if it’s just a lollypop. We often take turns going to buy chocolate covered frozen bananas. If you’re eating something in front of someone else, you always offer them some, and they will always accept, even if they don’t really want it, just to be nice; whereas in the US, we would probably decline just to be nice, even if we wanted some. This is uncomfortable sometimes, especially when it’s a kid offering you some sort of sticky candy that has half melted in his dirty hand. One time I was waiting for the bus in San Juan with a woman from town who I kind of knew, and she went to buy some roasted corn on the cob that was for sale on the street, and asked me if I wanted some, so I accepted and knew that it would be impolite to offer to pay for it. Oftentimes random fruits and vegetables are gifted to me, like when one lady stopped by my office the other day to give me a pound of green beans, or when my soccer girls give me handfuls of jocote fruits or a giant lime the size of a giant orange. Whenever the women that I live with make something like corn bread or tamales, them always save me one. I’ve adapted to this too and since I bake frequently in my house, I always make sure to make enough to give some to the family. It’s a nice thing.

Along with the having to accept food that is offered to you and food being such a part of social customs, comes the gaining of weight with the cuisine here being carbo-heavy and relying heavily on pig lard, vegetable oil, and salt. It’s not necessarily seen as bad to be overweight here, and definitely not rude to comment about it. Even though I consider myself to be a normal height and weight in the states and maintain an active lifestyle here, I’m much bigger and taller than most people here, including lots of men. But coming from US culture, it still stings when people comment about my size. Last week when two of my coworkers made comments about how Katy was getting “gordita,” - little fatty - (which is not an insult and is often used as a term of endearment), I had to hold myself back from getting really annoyed at them. When the truck that I was riding on one day slid off the side of the road and we had to get towed out, they were calling for the heaviest people of the group to stand on the back bumper to give it weight to give the tire traction. And of course they called the gringa to go stand on it. These instances grate on me and take a lot of internal rationalizing to not let them bother you.

I went to another prayer session recently at the house of some of my friends for the one year anniversary of when their younger sister who had special needs passed away. I rather enjoy going to these events, since they are an opportunity to see lots of people from the community and share in a common purpose and share food together. They are not somber, formal events, but rather relaxed informal gatherings. Everyone is happy to see everyone and despite the reason for the gathering, everyone is in good spirits. People come late and leave early, and younger kids dart around playing between the adults seated on chairs and benches. People bring flowers (usually plastic ones) that are placed on an altar with candles, incense and a picture of the deceased person and sit together for about an hour while some women leads the praying/chanting/singing of which they are all familiar. Afterwards there is always some sort of snack and hot beverage, this particular evening there was chicken salad on tostadas and on rolls with hot chocolate made with cinnamon. It is common for people to take the snacks with them wrapped up to go to eat the next day or give to a family member at home. These events exist usually for birthdays, deaths, anniversaries of deaths. A nice Guatemalan custom.

There is a government institution in Guatemala in charge of upholding human rights. They have been active in El Chol organizing youth groups and promoting that youth know about their rights. So they organized a Fair for the Recognition of Youth Rights here in which they asked the participation of various institutions. So I was in charge of organizing the stand for the municipality on the subject of citizen participation, which is one of the main focuses of my project. I designed the content and the interns in my office helped me to make some posters and some games for the kids to play. On the day there were group of 15 kids that came in six rotations so I gave them a short presentation on participation and the System of Development Councils, then they played some interactive games to which we gave them candy for finishing the puzzles.

Working in Guatemala is frustrating. Working in the muni is frustrating. Here’s a little anecdote that captures pretty well the types of frustrations that are faced here. Days and days can go by without anything really to do. Then all of a sudden, a bunch of things all happen at once. One particular Thursday there were four work-related activities going on that I wanted to participate in. One, the monthly COMUDE meeting which I have never missed one and I don’t like to since you hear about everything that is going on. Two, a training on the GIS ArcView program. Three, one of the city councilwoman and I received an invitation to go to the capital for a two day convention on a Thursday of representatives of the Commission 9 (Family, Women, and Youth) part of the COMUDE, given by one of the NGOs active in El Chol. We were planning on going, but then two days beforehand, on Tuesday, three women representatives from the Presidential Secretary of the Woman (like the National Women’s Office) stopped by my office to tell us about an assembly they were hosting for the same day the other meeting was for in Salamá, the departmental capital of Baja Verapaz (activity number four). This meeting was supposed to be a gathering of ten women leaders from each of the eight municipalities in the department of Baja Verapaz to create a network of female leaders and elect representatives to the CODEDE, the Departmental Development Council. Baja Verapaz has a female governor (politically appointed position, but still cool), and she was gonna be there with representatives from different sectors that support women’s issues. So in talking to the city councilwoman, we decided that it would be more beneficial to go to that meeting, considering these contacts would be good for the women’s office that we are supposedly opening in January of next year. Of course the invitation was dated for ten days earlier and they weren’t able to get them to us til two days before the event, expecting us to get the notes to the ten female community leaders to the different rural communities in next day. It seemed like such a great opportunity that we made the effort. They had left five of the notes with me, and five of them with another community leader to distribute. So I had to coordinate with her but she is very busy and hard to track down and doesn’t really answer the phone. So I found her late Tuesday afternoon and we made the plans to go, put together the list of participants and she said she would arrange the microbus to take our group. It’s a delicate line that you have to tread on since all of these things are very political and personal, in terms of whom to invite, who get along with or doesn’t get along with whom, and all that nit-picky stuff that I know exists all the world over, but I feel is especially heightened here. Right afterwards I made the appropriate phone calls and house calls to invite the women. One I couldn’t get the phone number for so had to track down the microbus that was going out to that community and give the note to a random neighbor for her to pass on. On Wednesday I called the community leader to try to confirm the microbus, and she didn’t pick up the phone all day. I was calling and calling and she didn’t answer. Meanwhile the participants are calling me to confirm that they are coming, so I tell them to be there at 6:00 in the morning on Thursday to leave to be there by 8:30 when the meeting started. I don’t get a hold of her until 7:00 Wednesday night when she finally answered my site mate’s phone call and told her that she wasn’t able to go and that the bus wasn’t working. Well then I freaked out not knowing what to do, with all these women planning on making the effort to come down from their communities to attend this event. So I called the public microbus driver so see if by any chance he could take us and wait for us, but since the roads are so bad right now because of the rain, mud, and landslides, he told be he wouldn’t be leaving until 7:30, which would mean we wouldn’t get to Salamá til 10:00, late. And that to come back, the bus would be leaving at noon, which wouldn’t give us hardly any time at the meeting. So that option was out. I then called the coordinator of the women’s office in Granados, because I knew they were going and had a microbus and would be passing through El Chol. But she told me they only had room for two people and would be passing through at 5:00 am. There were no other options and I had no choice but to call them all and tell them that we wouldn’t be able to go. I was able to get a hold of everyone, except that COCODE president from the community that I go bake bread in. That community doesn’t have electricity, so the charge on her phone had run out. I was calling her all evening, sent a text message and everything but she didn’t get them. I was worried because she is an awesome woman who is super sharp, intelligent, and participatory and I knew that even though it rained all night, that she would still come. I barely slept all night worrying about this and I sent my alarm for 4:30 Thursday morning to try to call her again as she would be leaving her house, but still her phone was dead. So at 6:00 I rolled out of bed and went down to meet her in front of the muni. There she was, waiting there all by herself, dressed in her nicest homemade pink blouse and skirt set, and a thin sweater, soaked from the rain and sweat from the walk into town. I apologized profusely explaining the circumstances to which she was completely understanding. No matter how many times she told me not to worry about it, I just felt so bad, knowing that she had to ask permission from her husband to leave, spent all day the day before grinding extra corn for her absence, getting up before dawn, and walking for an hour in the darkness down the slippery muddy path from her house into town in the rain all alone. So we went to the market and I bought her breakfast of pinol and atol and she charged her phone in the muni before walking back home. I went home to shower and get ready and bought some lollypops for her to take back with her to give to her three year old daughter named Katy also. As far as the other activities were concerned, it turned out that the COMUDE meeting was canceled because the mayor called it off last minute, I couldn’t go to the ArcView training since they were gonna go on a motorcycle (which we aren’t allowed to ride anymore) but then they ended up not even going anyway because the roads are so bad, and it was too late to travel to the capital for the other convention. So there were four events planned for that Thursday that I wanted to go to, and it resulted that I ended up that none of them turned out and I spent a long boring day at the office frustrated, sad, and disappointed, playing some Spider Solitaire and listening to it pour down rain outside. Ugh. The whole day I was in a funk…questioning if I can really do much of anything here.

The rainy season continues...world map...oatmeal scones...

We gave another AIDS workshop in the department of Sololá. It went really well. It’s interesting to see how different communities react to the topic. For example, this was an indigenous site where some people speak Kachikel, so when we did the activity “Lenguaje de la Calle” (street language) people used some words in Kachikel. We stayed at a volunteer’s house and I got to meet some volunteers that I didn’t know. It’s always fun to share experiences and common frustrations and hear about the situations in people’s various sites. I continue to be impressed by the fascinating people that join the Peace Corps and what they have done in their lives. That weekend there was a group in Panajachel celebrating various occasions, (including my birthday). We went out dancing that night and I think I burned a million calories, but replaced a few with some late night street tacos on the way back to the hostel.

The trip back to my site was long and rainy. The clouds cling to the peaks of the surrounding green hills and settle in the low valleys. Along the sides of the highway run rivers of mud that look like chocolate milk and cut away at the road. The roads are in really bad shape now and covered with giant potholes from all the water running under them. The sights on the side of the road have become commonplace and I don’t much notice them as anything notable anymore…kids carrying loads of firewood bigger than they are, women carrying water on their head from who knows what source, guys carrying 100 pound sacks of corn on their backs with a strap around their forehead, old men sitting on cinderblocks chatting with bottles of illegally manufactured potent liquor, boys playing soccer on the road with goals marked by tree branches, and little girls in brightly colored woven skirts with big brown eyes and dirty faces peering out from tin shacks.

When we were only five km from El Chol, the micro I was on turned to the side of the road to avoid a passing car, and got stuck in the mud on the side of the cliff. I was the only one who yelped, so then everyone laughed at me. So all the passengers had to pile out, careful to not slip in the mud on the steep slope into the rickety barbed wire fence. Then we had to wait in the darkness in the rain for a pickup truck to come from town to pull us out and it made it a nine-hour trip home from the lake. I’m ready for rainy season to end – ready for my clothes to dry, ready for the mold to disappear from my walls, ready for my roof not to leak, ready for the water from my faucet not to be brown.

My site mate and I are starting a project to paint a world map on the basketball court of the elementary school in town. Geography is not a strong point here, it’s not like there are maps and globes in the classrooms, so we think it will be a good way for kids to see the countries of the world and orient themselves within it. And having it on the basketball court you can play those games where you call out a country and everyone has to race to that country, like we always played with the states back in elementary school. It should be fun. We have a template in squares, so you just measure the lines on the court and paint accordingly to the squares. We’re gonna have to get all the kids together to clean the area first and try to pick off the stuck-on gum and get them to participate in the painting as well.

The latest baking adventure in La Ciénega was oatmeal scones, which turned out superbly. The way that the clay oven works is that you put a bunch of firewood in there, let it burn down to coals, and then push them out. The only problem was that since it is the rainy season and has been raining a ton recently, all the firewood was wet, so it took a long time. Then to make the second batch, we had to burn a second pile of firewood and wait for that to become coals to bake the rest. In all we baked 110 scones. I brought the photos that my dad had printed out of the lunch we had when they were visiting and gave them the pictures that they were in. They were thrilled since they have very few family photos. I also showed them the pictures of my family when they went to Lake Quinalt and a bunch of new photos of my niece, which they loved and asked for me to give them some again.

We continue with our monthly inter-institutional meetings to coordinate with the NGOs that work in El Chol. There was little presence at the August meeting, so we came to the conclusion that the development professionals needed to be reminded of the meeting with a text message a couple days before. So I did that for the September meeting and there was more presence, but still not everyone. This is very frustrating. We have also started taking notes at the meetings to keep track of what we talk about and document our agreements and obligations. It was my turn to write the last meeting notes and it’s funny, that to create a five page single-spaced document in Spanish doesn’t even faze me. I still have my counterpart review it before I send it out, but my Spanish is definitely gotten a lot better. I have to say, becoming fluent in Spanish is one of my proudest life accomplishments. So I sent it to all the email addresses that everyone had given me, and about half bounced back. When I asked at the meeting if the rest had received the document, not one had checked their email to open it. Not one! Text messages are definitely to mode of communication here, email is not. And now the signal at the good internet café in town is down “til November” to remodel, whatever that means and the other internet place in town takes about 30 minutes just to open your hotmail account.

COMUNA, work, Independence Day!

So one of the NGOs that’s active in El Chol has started a project to form a Municipal Council of Youth (Consejo Municipl de la Niñez y la Adolescencia or COMUNA). The idea is to teach kids about citizen participation and civic responsibility by having them go through an election process of electing a Municipal Council made up of kids that mirrors the process that adults take part in. The kids made three political parties with candidates for Mayor and Government Plans and then they have to register to vote, have an election day, and then the elected council will participate in the adult-run COMUDE and make proposals to the City Council. As one of the goals of my project of Municipal Development is increasing citizen participation, I've been getting involved with this process. It’s a huge logistical undertaking for the NGO to coordinate 18 schools that are participating, all the teachers, and over 600 kids. They have brought them all together for general assemblies, in which transportation, snacks, and lunches have to be provided. I facilitated one groups of kids when they were creating their Government Plan to run on. We looked at each of the sectors of health, education, environment, recreation, etc. and discussed the problems and realistic solutions in these areas. This whole project is awesome in theory, but in practice it has been rather difficult as it presents a logistical and organizational challenges. Last Sunday all the kids and teachers got together for a forum to present their Government Plans and respond to questions and next week the voting will take place. After the committee is elected, hopefully the kids will participate in the COMUDE meetings and that their opinions will be taken seriously.

So back in February we created nine committees as part of the COMUDE, which are technically required by law and correspond to the committees that the City Council has. However, none of them really function, or rather, we have a list of names on paper that pertain to each committee, but they never meet and never do anything. Well, I’m part of the committee for the Family, Women, and Children (Comisión IX) and we’ve been getting support from an NGO to create a polÌtica p·blica…kind of like a document of needs and short and long-term goals in the sector of youth. We have monthly meetings where we learn about the legal basis that protects kids and promotes their rights, we broke up into sub-committees to do research on various sectors relating to health, education, recreation, etc. with youth, and hopefully soon we will be using this needs assessment to decide on priorities, wrap it up in a pretty little package of a document, and then get the prioritized projects into the budget, and hopefully coordinate with the kids who are elected to the COMUNA so that they have their say and we come with double force to the City Council. We’ll see…

In July we printed our fourth Municipal Newsletter and in September we printed our fifth. They have been going really well and gotten very positive responses. I created an anonymous questionnaire to get some feedback on them, and handed it out during the COMUDE meeting when we distributed the newsletters. Everybody wrote good things and gave me some suggestions for future topics. Recent topics that I have written about include: Get to know the Municipal Code, What are Municipal Incomes, the Formation of the COMUNA, and the printing of the costs for every project executed by the muni in 2008.

At the end of August my good friend Juan Pablo, the civil engineering intern from the University of San Carlos in Guate in our office who was doing his internship here for six months, finished his time here with us. With took the afternoon off and had a nice traditional going away party for him with chicharrones (fried pig skins complete with bristly hairs on some pieces), tortillas, guacamole, salt, rum and cokes, and durenguense music. He will be missed. But we got another civil engineering intern from the USAC, this time a girl! So I’m not the only girl in the office anymore, which is a relief. She’s a lot of fun and buena onda so it’s been a nice change.
A while ago I was taking a shower in a hotel at Lake Atitlan. I was enjoying the experience as the water was incredibly hot and the bathroom was getting very filled with steam. Then I realized that the steam smelled funny and that I could no longer see through it, as which point it occurred to me that it was smoke, not steam. Well I was all soapy at this point and figured I¥d just try to rinse off real quick, but then all of a sudden flames started shooting out of the calentador, the water-heating device connected directly on top of the spout. I immediately turned off the water and started screaming and ran out of the bathroom all soapy in my tiny travel towel to which my friends found hilarious. Only in Guatemala would a shower actually catch on fire.

The other weekend I rode my bike ride to Granados, the next town over about 10 km away down the mountainous dirt road to visit another volunteer who lives there. We had a nice time catching up and sharing the joys and many frustrations of this strange life we live here and chatting about grad schools, careers, and what might come next. We made two boxes of Kraft macaroni and cheese that she had gotten from the states and ate them both. Delicious. The next day I left to ride back to El Chol and about half way back the sky opened up and I got caught in the heaviest rain that I've seen since I've been here. I arrived home soaking wet like I’d just gotten out of the shower, except covered with mud too and my family got quite the kick out of it. They just think I’m crazy for the things I do sometimes….as it would never occur to them to ride a bike to Granados, especially if it were raining.

Yesterday I went on a walk with my site mate up the mountain here in El Chol. It had been stormy all day, but wasn´t at the moment. As we were walking back down, a bolt of lightning struck right in front of us! I seriously saw it hit the ground right in front of us. We both screamed and grabbed hands and hurried home. It freaked me out so much. I´ve never been afraid of being struck by lightning, but now that I almost died, I am.

So…INDEPENDENCE DAY! in Guatemala was September 15th, celebrating their liberation from Spain in 1821. It was quite the festivity, as most celebrations in Guatemala generally are. They don¥t just celebrate the actual day, but for days leading up to the lead as well. Different communities have different traditions, but in El Chol there were a series of Civic Moments in which the pre-school, primary school, middle school, high school, and teachers put on performances of traditional dances with traditional costumes in the park and then sold all different kinds of typical foods. Each group had their own day on the days leading up to the 15th. These performances were complete with the burning of devil, being someone dressed up in red with a mask with fireworks strapped to them that shot off in all directions. The food for sale was delicious with dobladas (corn dough stuffed, folded, and fried), chuchitos (corn dough cooked in corn husks), tamales (corn dough cooked in a big green leaf with tomato sauce and a piece of pork), bushboles (corn dough cooked in greens), chepes (corn dough with whole black beans), elotes (corn on the cob), atol (hot sweet beverages, sometimes made out of corn), tostados (toppings on a large round tortilla chip), panza (cow stomach), torejas (sweet bread cooked in eggs and honey), ejotes (green beans), pinol (tortilla soup-esque), frutas en conserva (preserved fruits in syrup), caldo de gallina (chicken soup).

In addition to the civic moments, there is the tradition of the schools going on field trips to run and bring the Torch of Peace, kind of like the bringing of the Olympic Torch. It’s a cool tradition because the kids get to travel around their country and for many kids, it’s the only opportunity they have to experience different places outside their community or department. For example, the middle school kids went to Livingston, the GarÌfuna community on the Caribbean coast and one of the elementary schools went to the Biotopo Quetzal a rainforest nature preserve. I had the honor of going on two trips: one with an elementary school to a water park and another with the high school to Panajachel.

I went on one with the elementary school Trapiche Viejo where the mayors wife is the director of the school so she went and the mayor went, in addition to some of the teachers that I know. We met at 2:00 am to get all the kids on the two full school buses that went in addition to a microbus with the rest of us to go to the awesome water park of Xocomil (Sho-co-mill) in the Pacific coastal department of Retalhuleu (Rey-tal-lu-lay-oo). We got there at 10:30 am and played all day on the water slides and wave pool. This place was seriously better than Wild Waves at home. The kids loved every minute of it, even though most of them were too scared to go on the water slides, it was so much fun to enjoy myself in the water (this is the Peace Corps?) and to watch the kids having such a good time. The park being a tourist attraction, there were people from all over Guatemala there and the unwanted attention from guys and adolescent boys for being foreigners walking around in bikinis was a real annoyance. That night we stayed in a dormitory in a multi-sport complex that felt a bit like a homeless shelter with a long room filled with blue metal bunk beds, gross mattresses, dirty bathrooms with no toilet seats (typical because evidently there is a shortage of toilet seats in Guatemala), and tons of women and children laying out towels and sheets to sleep on in the stuffy heat. But it was all part of the experience and we made the best of it. Fell asleep absolutely exhausted at 9:00 pm to get up again at 4:00 am to go to see the ocean. Went to Puerto de Champerico by 6:30 am when it was already super hot. Got coffee and breakfast (eggs and beans, what else?) at a beach hut restaurant in the sand and lazed in a hammock while the kids played in the super dangerous ocean waves. Only one kid had to be rescued from the undertow by some surfer dudes. I was surprised to see how they did no head counts, never set meeting times or places, but somehow everything worked out. They started running with the torch from there, and a number of kids and teachers ran a few kilometers in the mid-day sweltering heat, carrying the Guatemalan flag and sign from their school and blowing whistles the whole time. Everywhere there are walking vendors selling flags of all sizes and these plastic whistles to make sure that every kids in Guatemala is capable making the most noise possible. Now that is patriotism. They got back on the buses, which are also decked out with Flags, and we made our way back to El Chol. We started running again in Granados at about 10:00 at night and both my site mate and I were given the opportunity to carry the torch for a bit. It¥s a funny site with a mob of kids running with matching t-shirts, headbands, all kinds of Guatemala adornments all blowing whistles like crazy and the buses following behind with horns blaring the whole way and crowds cheering everyone on. The kids take turns running and carrying the torch like a relay. We showed up in El Chol with motorcycle and tuk tuk escorts around 11:30 that night to a welcoming crowd and tons of firecrackers and more blaring horns (this is a loud country). We ended at the school where they had speeches, sang the national anthem (I think officially the longest in the world), gave everyone snacks, and then had a marimba dance. I went home to prepare for the next field trip, went to bed around 1:45 am, slept about 45 minutes, and got up to leave for the next trip.

With the high school kids we met at 3:00 am to all leave on one school bus to go to Panajachel on Lake Atitl·n. Even though it was super early in the morning, all of them were so excited to be going they had lots of energy. There was loud pumping music and giddy screaming the whole way, although in my state of exhaustion I slept through most of it. We arrived at the lake later that morning and Hannah and I had a serious need for good coffee, so we went to our favorite cafÈ owned by our South African and New York couple friends. In the mean time, the group left on a ferry to go visit the traditional town of Santiago across the lake, so we had to find a lancha to get us over there to meet back up with them. That evening the kids wanted to go out on the town to go dancing, so we went out and played a semi-chaperone role, even though some of the students are our age. We had a lot of fun dancing with our students and seeing them enjoying themselves outside of small El Chol. The next day (the 14th) we took off around noon and made our way down the inter-American highway towards El Chol. The whole way were other school groups carrying the torch so traffic was completely snarled and every vehicle had Guatemalan flags plastered all over it and it. The kids were actually running on the highway with trucks passing them and everything. Everyone was madly honking in both encouragement and frustration, not a day to be traveling for any reason other than to be carrying a torch. It was the craziest in Chimaltenango, a major town on the highway that you have to pass through no matter where you are going. There were tons of crowds lining the highway and we were crawling along at the pace of the runners. As is the tradition, everyone throws water at the runners and at the buses, we’re talking bags of waters, buckets, and hoses. It was chaos with the mucic, the whistles, the screaming, and the water coming from every person in every direction. The doors and the windows of the bus were open, so we weren’t spared the soaking. The ayudante of the bus kept filling up a bucket and chucking it around inside the bus so everything was soaked, including all of our backpacks. The kids inside the bus were also spraying Coca Cola and orange soda to top it off. Nuts. It was literally like we’d been swimming with our clothes and our shoes on. We made it to San Juan Sacatequez around 5:00 from where they started running. It took seven hours to run the 47 kilometers (28 miles) back to El Chol, going super slow and freezing cold from being wet so long. It was a strange mix of horrible suffering from being tired, wet, cold, bored, and going deaf but also just sheer amazement of the kids energy, patriotism, and excitement and just how cool it was to be witnessing such a unique cultural experience. There were kids running the whole way with the torch. I took my turn and ran for a good 5 km. It was a cool experience running with that energy down the dirt mountain road in pitch darkness with only the light of the moon. Every so often you’d get surprise water thrown at you from the darkness by someone on a hill above or a house behind the trees. As we got closer to El Chol, there were people from there waiting on motorcycles to accompany us back and when we finally arrived in town after midnight, all of us running at the end, the whole town was there to greet us with cheering and more firecrackers. There was a stage set up in the central park and again, speeches (the mentioned the participation of the Peace Corps volunteers) and hoopla. The torch was presented to the mayor and there was a live band, tamales for the whole town, and several drunks stumbling about. People stayed and carried on til 3:00 am, which I could hear all of it from my house nearby.

The next day was Independence Day, the parade of all the schools started at 9:00 am with each group of kids in uniforms or costumes, some behind pickups with large speakers blaring music, others in school bands complete with drums and chimes. After the parade, my coworkers and I handed out 400 copies of the latest municipal newsletter to everyone in the park. After that, we handed out snacks of cookies and juice to the hundreds of kids who had participated in the parade, as it was mid-day and super hot by that point. In the afternoon there was a soccer tournament for men, and one game for women in which I played and we won 3-0 and I scored a goal!

Overall the Independence Day events were lots of fun. It’s so interesting to see how other countries express their pride and patriotism. Kind of like everything in Guatemala, it was long and drawn out, but super interesting and made me feel good to be able to be a part of it all with the community.

ONE YEAR IN GUATEMALA!!!

So yes, at the end of August I completed one year in this beautiful country. For a multitude of reasons that day was a bad day full of frustration and disappointment, but besides that day everything has been going very well. I still am very happy with my decision to be here and have never taken a serious thought to wanting to come home early. I feel very comfortable and integrated into the community, I've gotten into a routine at work, and enjoy myself with a variety of other activities. I don’t feel like I’m changing the world or making any major institutional changes in the municipality, but there are little things that I have done that I think have helped in their own little way and relationships that I have built with people that I think speak the most.

To celebrate our one year anniversary, my training group all got together at Fuente Georginas, a natural hot springs outside the city of Xela in the western highlands. It was great to see everyone and catch up and spend some time together. The hot springs were awesome…the perfect temperature for the chilly weather at that altitude. It was sprinkling down rain so it made a cool atmosphere with the steam rising out of the pool made with natural rocks, surrounded by lush green forests. We stayed overnight there in cabins complete with the necessary fireplaces, so after it closed to the public in the evening, we had the place to ourselves. We all brought food to BBQ and grilled veggies and sausages and had quite the feast. The whole experience was enchanting!

It’s been awhile since I've had an update, I apologize, but it’s a good thing that I've been busy. Here’s a hodgepodge of what’s been going on in the past couple months…

El Chol was the host of a gathering of preschool teachers in the department of Baja Verapaz. They all got together for workshops and curriculum work and of course, an election of the queen of the events. There was a big community gathering in the market to watch the festivities. They put together a big stage with a giant strawberry as a backdrop and cartoon character hanging down. There was lots of pomp and circumstance with the bringing in of the flag, singing of the national anthem, various speakers giving the welcome, etc. There was a candidate from each of the eight municipalities in Baja Verapaz who paraded themselves about in “fantasy outfits”. There was also a dance done by some of the preschool kids dressed up in traditional garb with these wooden masks that are used for the ceremonial dances. The highlight of the evening was the “burning of the devil” where someone dressed up as the devil dances about with firecrackers strapped to his back shooting off in all directions into the crowd. That’s another one of those things that’s really cool, but would never be allowed in the states. Imagine all the fire codes broken and lawsuits waiting to happen. That’s why I love Guatemala.

The other day I was invited to a friend of mine’s birthday party. As is common here, it was a sort of prayer session, but this was special since there was an invited group that played live marimba music and put on a religious service. It was quite the interesting experience…I sat there in a chair outside for three hours before I had to excuse myself and go home. It was a Catholic service, but seemed Evangelical as there was lots of singing with hands raised in the air, crying about Jesus, and people being cured right there on the spot. Seriously, three hours sitting there feeling out of place, under a tent while it was pouring down rain…I didn’t even stay long enough for coffee and tamales. It’s always nice to be invited to things but sometimes it turns out not quite as expected.

The other day for my English class I brought the movie Juno to watch with them, as an exercise in listening comprehension, of course. I brought bags of popcorn, someone brought soda, and we had a merry time. They thought it was cool that I had the “original” DVD since here originals are almost unheard of since there is such a strong pirating industry. Some of the pirated versions are straight copies of the originals and they are actually pretty good, while other are literally filmed in the movie theaters and are off centered and have babies crying and heads walking across the screen.

In the month of August I had the wonderful visit of Jesse and Nate! We had such a good time it was awesome to show them around this lovely country and share my life here with them. I picked them up at the airport and we spent a few days in Antigua where we climbed the Pacaya Volcano (the one I climbed during training where you can walk out on the lava fields and roast marshmallows), visited a coffee farm and museum, went and saw the Mayan/Catholic saint of Maximon where the bus ride there was so crowded we were literally hanging out of the bus door, enjoyed various typical Guatemalan cuisine, went out dancing, and shopped around in the market. Then we traveled out to my site, enjoying all the forms of transportation that Guatemala has to offer. In El Chol they visited my office, we took a tuk tuk (three wheeled mototaxi) ride to bask at the river, watched the plucking of a turkey and two chickens that were living at my houses (thank goodness I don’t have to wake up to turkey squabbles anymore), watched Jesse suffer as she received chicken heads in TWO meals in one day, went to the school in Los Jobos where the women I live with work and read them some stories and played soccer with them at recess, attended a prayer session at my house for the senor’s birthday, Jesse attended soccer practice with me, they came to my English class with me, watched a community event of traditional dances in the elementary school, and made lunch of peanut sauce stir-fry at my house with coworkers. Then we traveled to Panajachel on Lake Atitilan and went to an awesome cross dressing party at a hostel. On the way back Jesse had her passport stolen on the bus out of her purse, so then we spent our last day at the American Embassy in Guatemala City getting it replaced. That was a strange experience to be at the embassy with all the Guatemalans lined up there trying to gets visas to go to the US and all the American couples getting passports for the Guatemalan children they were adopting. It gave me a funny feeling. But overall the trip was incredible! It was so much fun to get to hang out with them and share everything with them!

I’ve been getting involved with HIV/AIDS education projects. Peace Corps received a grant from USAID to conduct a series of education workshops for teachers so that they can be trained to give it to their students, as HIV/AIDS education is now mandatory in the schools by law, but not very often enforced. I’ve given a few of these workshops now at other volunteers’ sites. The biggest one was in Pachalum, Quiche where almost 120 teachers and youth participated in the event. They are four hour long workshops that are full of participatory and interactive activities complete with a condom practice with plantains. Each community and each group is different, but overall the participants have been very receptive. They ask good questions that sometimes make me chuckle to myself such as when an older woman asked what the purpose of flavored condoms was. Recently I co-taught a workshop with my site mate in the high school in El Chol that went very well. We asked the doctor from the Health Center in town to speak during the workshop, which turned out interestingly. He basically started reinforcing all bad gender stereotypes by essentially celebrating and joking with the guys about how promiscuous they are. When he left this led to a productive conversation about gender roles and stereotypes. The high school kids are a really good and a wonderful group to work with.

I’ve continued going into the high school to give workshops on citizen participation. Most recently we did the cycle of a project and how to do a community diagnostic and project prioritization. I had them break into groups according to the diagnostic we did for El Chol and the projects they prioritized to write a project profile for the hypothetical projects. Hopefully we will have them replicate the process out in the communities.

Now that we’ve been here for one year, the new group of Municipal Development volunteers has arrived. It’s strange that my group now finds itself in the role of the experienced ones who help out with training. The group came to visit me in my site two weeks after arriving in country to get an orientation of the work and life of a volunteer. They had the opportunity to see my office and meet my mayor, counterpart, and coworkers. I shared with them about my work and they visited my house and I showed them some pictures of my experiences here.

I am the new Municipal Development program representative for the Peace Corps Gender and Development Committee. So I helped give a workshop with the trainees at the Peace Corps training center on gender awareness and how it fits into our project. It went well and started lots of good conversations, such as when we did the activity where we brainstorm “As a man/woman in Guatemala/US I can/cannot do….” Machismo and conservative gender roles present such a huge barrier in the work that we do in our communities, it is essentially to be aware and well versed in these issues, as well as prepared with strategies to confront these challenges.

Okay, that’s all for now even though there’s a lot more to update on. Stay posted for the telling of the experience of Independence Day!

Chequenes, Soccer, chicken anatomy, Chiquimula, Los Jobos Feria

I forgot to write about something crazy: Chequenes. Towards the beginning of the rainy season at the beginning of June, there is this phenomenon that these flying bugs, kind of like large juicy ants with wings, fall from the sky in the wee morning hours. There is all kinds of excitement because people collect them and cook ’em up and eat ’em. So back in the beginning of June, I got a phone call from one of my co-workers around 4:45 in the morning. I grumpily answered thinking he was just messing with me or something, and he told me to come down to the soccer field quickly where the chequenes were falling. Really not wanting to get out of bed, but figuring this may be a once in a lifetime opportunity, I made my way down there. There were various people out in the streets positioned under the streetlights for when the bugs fell they put them in plastic sacks. I met up with my coworkers and helped with the collection. They swirl around the street lights in swarms, and then one by one they just sort of fall and land on the ground where you can pick them up by their wings. We collected enough to fill about one third of a grocery sack (that’s a lot). We got a lady who works at the muni to prepare them for us, removing the wings and legs, cleaning them, and the toasting them with lime and salt. Then we got a bunch of tortillas to pile them onto and snacked on them right there in the office (this was when my cousin was visiting and she got in on it too). They actually taste pretty good once you get over the idea of what you are eating. They have a soft crunch and full salty flavor. I wouldn’t want to eat a ton of them, but the experience was intriguing.

So out of the blue all of a sudden there was an organized women’s soccer tournament in El Chol. There are four teams: two from the middle school, one from the high school, and one of teachers. I asked permission to play with the teachers and last Saturday I played with them for the first time. We won our game 1-0 against one of the middle school teams, and I made the winning goal! It’s not the highest level of competition I've ever played with, but we have a good time and it’s so nice to be playing full field real soccer games where I feel like I fit in. There were lots of people there cheering us on, and cheering me on specifically telling me to score (I was playing right forward the first half, and center forward the second half when I scored). It was cool to see the little girls that I coach there watching the game and getting into it.

It’s cute…the girls at my house ask me everyday if we’re going to have practice that day (we practice on Tuesdays and Thursdays). I think that half the girls show up with at least one article of pink clothing. It takes a ton of energy for me to run these practices. There are like 30 girls now and I have to yell loudly to get their attention on the field. Twice now during our practices, a bull has run onto the field, sending all the girls screaming and running. Two men quickly appear, one on a motorcycle and one on foot with a lasso to try to get control of it. Only in Guatemala…that was something I never had to deal with in when I was coaching with Skyhawks. There is such a huge difference between the boys and the girls…when I watch the boys their age play, I am blown away by how good they are and what a good touch on the ball they have. With the girls right now I’m working on not having them stop the ball with their hands. Obviously there has been a huge difference in the ways the boys and girls are brought up and encouraged.

The summer of visitors continues. Two friends from the states that are volunteering in El Salvador came to El Chol to visit me for a weekend. We had a good time hanging out and catching up. The señora brought us tamales, as she does often, for us to eat. We went on some walks around town, they came to my soccer game, and we ate churrascos (tasty grilled meat) from a cart on the street run by a kind older gentleman.

At work the other day we had a great walk down memory lane together watching YouTube videos of cartoons from the 1980´s that we shared in common in our childhood like Transformers, Captain Planet, and Power Rangers. I love it when you find the little things in common.

So the other day I came home for lunch and the señora at the house was standing at the pila cleaning chicken parts. She often is dealing with chickens, casually carrying them around by the neck, about to be killed or recently killed, like it ain’t no thang. I greeted her and asked her with curiosity about what she was working on. She then proceeded to give me a fascinating lesson on the anatomy of a chicken. Back in high school biology we had dissected cats and the organs of other various animals so I had sort of seen this stuff before, but never so casually. She instructed me on the liver, the kidneys, the heart, the lungs, among other parts. She showed me fully formed egg that hadn’t been laid yet and put it aside to eat. I don’t know why, but it seemed weird to me to eat an egg that hadn’t been laid yet and she joked that it was as fresh as they come, which I suppose is true. There was the canal where the eggs pass down with 6! yolks increasing in size from one about the size of a marble to the fully formed egg. It’s crazy to see how they are formed and to look at such an everyday common object in a different way. The stomach was also really cool, she rinsed out everything that had been inside, full grains of corn and a bunch of pebbles. She scraped the toughness well with a knife, which made a loud rasping sound and told me how they were going to eat it. I guess my fascination with the whole process shows that I didn’t grow up on a farm.

I’m happy with the progress of my English class. Right now I have 12 students which is perfect cause you can still do group activities, but I can give them much more individualized attention. Their pronunciation is getting a lot better and their vocabularies have improved quite a bit. We’re almost half way through the materials that I have.

The other weekend a few of us went to visit a fellow volunteer working out in the eastern part of the country in the department of Chiquimula. It’s a bit of a different world out there. The buses first of all are actually really nice with comfy seats, TVs, and air conditioning! The craziest thing was that the ayudante came around to collect trash, which is rather revolutionary since most people just throw their trash out the window without a second thought. In general the people out east are much less conservative and everyone speaks with rather vulgar words. There are hardly any indigenous people and cowboy boots are common. And it’s really hot. We had a fun time all hanging out together on my friend’s patio all day long doing nothing but eating yummy Indian food that she cooked for us, chatting, and reading People and Newsweek magazines. At night we piled into a pickup and went to some hot springs with some of her friends from town (it’s too hot to go during the day). On the way back home on the usual rickety Chol bus, there was a lady who had a basket full of baby chickens that was covered with a cloth. As we were going along, one of the chicks somehow fell out of the basket and hit a little kid on the head, which I found quite hilarious. I also had the bad luck of sitting in the one seat where the window wouldn’t go up while it was pouring down rain. The water came in in droves and got me quite soaked.

It was the feria in one of the rural communities of El Chol, in the aldea Los Jobos. That is the community where the three teachers that I live with teach in, so there were quite involved with the planning of the event. All week long there were activities such as the crowning of the queen of the feria, soccer games, cattle sales, rifle competitions, etc. On Saturday I went with my site mate for the dance where they brought in a live band. We caught a ride in a pickup truck after waiting forever. The road going the 12 km out there is terrible and there were like 20 of us all crammed in standing up in the back of this truck trying to hold on as we bumped along the horribly potholed dirt road under the starry night sky. The truck kept losing power on the uphills with so much weight in it and everyone would have to get out and walk up the inclines. We made it out there in time to grab some food, walk around and soak in the atmosphere. The dance was lots of fun and typical of community dances here. All the mothers attend with their little kids to keep an eye on their adolescent daughters. So it’s super hot and suffocatingly stuffy, and all the moms and sitting in chairs along the sides. There’s always way more guys than girls and the majority of them are drunk. It makes for quite the interesting ambiance. You wait for a guy to ask you to dance (not that you have to wait long with the favorable ratios), so we danced with a few people that we knew. But we didn’t want to keep telling no to the random drunks, so my site mate and I ended up just dancing together the two of us like we would in the states, but is really weird here. So we usually get started at a lot just for looking different, but dancing together drew way more attention. It was rather amusing.

So my training group has been in country almost a year now and just recently we had our first person go home. He´s a good friend of mine and was just done being here and ready to go back and start grad school. I made a quick trip to get together in Antigua with a group of us to say goodbye. Our training group is really close, so it’s hard and sad to see somebody go home. We’re gonna miss you big guy.

The soccer tournament is going well and really fun, even though we lost our second game 0-1. Everyone kept cheering and asking where my goal was…sadly I couldn’t please them. We played against the high school team and they scored in the last minute.

Last Sunday was 14th David’s birthday, one of the kids related to the family. We had a little party compete with tamales, coffee, and cake. I got him a pirated DVD Ironman, which he was quite happy about.

Mmm…the other day was a typical good day…a beautiful bike ride in the morning sunshine, a tranquil day at work, soccer practice with the girls in the afternoon, chatting and joking with the family when I got home, and a nice quiet evening alone at home making a pineapple curry stir fry with fresh local veggies, baking an apple pie, and drinking warm milk as I finished the second season of Scrubs on DVD. I went to bed quite satisfied and so happy to be where I am.

Parents visit and Fourth of July

In the last weeks of June I had the grand honor of hosting my parents in Guatemala. I had a great time showing them my life and my work here, and also getting to see some other parts of Guatemala. After meeting them at the airport, we spent a couple days in Antigua soaking in the colonial atmosphere and easing them into Guatemala. We checked out the ruins, churches, and fabulous restaurants. I hired a guy from my town (the señora at my houses brother-in-law) to pick us up in Antigua and take us to my town. En route we stopped for lunch at Pollo Campero, the Guatemalan fried chicken chain that’s gone international. It’s an institution and sooo Guatemalan. It´s a popular spot for families to go for a treat and oftentimes if people have the money they will bring it back to their families in the rural areas after traveling through a large town. Even though there are a few franchises in the US, they say that it doesn’t taste as good cause there are nutrition standards so they can’t use as much grease. Thus, they also say that flights from Guatemala to the US always smell like fried chicken because everyone brings it to their relatives.

The time in my site with them was wonderful…they got to meet my friends, family, and coworkers, soak in the atmosphere of El Chol, and get a taste of the life I’m living. We all stayed in my cozy little house, them taking my bed and me on the couch. They came to my office bringing smoked salmon and Beecher´s Flagship cheese to share with my coworkers. The cheese was a big hit and I almost cried with happiness upon tasting the lusciousness again. It was cool cause my inquisitive Dad had a long conversation with my counterpart, who speaks pretty good English (I didn’t realize how good), asking him all about the work at the muni in regards to water systems, generation of electricity, and all kinds of other questions. The highlight of the time at my site was a lunch that my parents gave to 60 people from town including muni employees, my English students, women and children from La Ciénega (who had to walk three hours there and back), and members of the family that I live with. The mayor’s wife owns a comedor and hosts lots of lunches and various events so we had it there. It was so neat to see everybody come together and meet my parents. Lots of people dressed up for the event and the kids that came down from the rural community that I usually see barefoot and dirty were all fixed up with gelled hair and decent clothes and shoes. Various people brought gifts for my parents, such as typical handbags with El Chol stitched onto them and a pink knitted shirt for my mom that took the woman months to make. Lots of people wanted to take pictures with them too, which was slightly odd, but cool. We spent an entire evening chatting with the family that I live with after giving the kids coloring books and crayons, which they were fascinated with, and the women little footie socks that I wear that they had always said that they wanted. My mom’s Spanish did quite well, but it was still stressful having to do lots of translating. All in all though, it was just so cool to see my two worlds come together and for people to meet my family and for them to see my life here.

After my site we went to Panajachel on Lake Atitlan and stayed in an awesome colonial hotel. The lake is gorgeous – surrounded by three volcanoes and traditional indigenous towns. It was nice to relax and take in the natural beauty.

Next it was off to Tikal, the largest site of Mayan ruins up in the northern jungle region of Petén. We stayed a night inside the park, sleeping under mosquito nets and listening to the sounds of the jungle outside our cabin, including howler monkeys and countless species of birds. We got up while it was still dark to take the “sunrise tour” to the ruins. Trekking through the jungle heat and humidity in the wee morning hours, we climbed Temple IV, the highest one, to watch the sunrise and the series of ruins appear above the trees slowly through the mist. Impressive. Then we spent the next few hours being guided through the various ruins of temples and pyramids and hearing about the history and the myths. That afternoon we headed to Flores, a very small island town in the middle of a lake, despite being the departmental seat. You could walk the perimeter of the tranquil town in about 30 minutes, but the setting was quite lovely. We spent our last night in Guatemala City and they flew out early in the morning. All in all we had a wonderful time, despite the slight stresses on me of organizing everything and translating, it was well worth it for the memorable experience.

I then went to Antigua for the Peace Corps All Volunteer Conference, the one time the whole year when all 170ish volunteers in Guatemala get together. It was awesome to touch base with all my friends and to meet lots of other volunteers. We had some great speakers give information and opinions on topics such as Municipal Empowerment and Immigration. The next day we had a fabulous Fourth of July party in San Lucas put on by our Volunteer Advocacy Council. There was an American style BBQ complete with American flag toothpicks, a volunteer talent show, a singing of the national anthem, soccer and Frisbee, plenty of American music, and a dance party. There were no fireworks, but we tracked down some sparklers and had a patriotic moment in Antigua. It was a great way to spend the Fourth of July if you have to be out of the country, but for the first time I realized how much I really miss the USA the country, not just the people and places in it.

On the way back to my site, I was on a microbus on the dirt road heading to my town, when the camioneta (big school bus) from my town decided to broadside us on purpose. The two vehicles stopped and the drivers yelled at each other for awhile about not respecting the schedule of when each one left. The driver of the big bus was mad at the driver of the little bus for leaving at the same time and supposedly stealing his passengers and subsequently the money they would have paid him. (Which the driver of the little bus had no control over, since he was just doing what his boss ordered him to do). The driver of the big bus got back in, pulled it in front of our microbus, and then proceeded to back up into us on purpose and smash the front of our bus and then speed away. There was a fair bit of damage to the microbus, everyone was rather shaken up, and the driver of our bus was pissed. He called his boss and the police met us in Granados, another town up the way, where they handled everything. Meanwhile we all piled into another microbus to head back to El Chol and didn’t wait around. Only in Guatemala…

When I got home that Saturday afternoon, there was a prayer session being prepared for one of the women’s birthdays. I sat through the usual incense burning, singing, and recitations with the family and enjoyed delicious tamales and hot pineapple punch afterwards.

I have decided that I don’t like the rainy season. While yes, I am used to lots of rain being from Seattle, the difference here is that it is hot while it rains, the inside of your house is always damp, there are no clothes dryers to dry your clothes, the unpaved streets create massive amounts of mud, the rain falling on the tin roof is so loud you can’t talk on the phone or listen to music, you have to wash the mud off your jeans by hand, lots of roads become impassable, and the umbrella I bought is the cheapest and sorriest excuse for a rain stopping device I've ever seen. Some of my clothes and towels have molded in their inability to dry. Oh yeah, and hurricane risks. The other thing that sucks is that it gets dark at 7:00 pm, while I’m hearing about how great the weather is back home and how late it stays light. I guess the upside is that it stays light til 6:00 here the other half of the year. But in general, I have to say that the rainy season here – May through November – sucks.

chequenes

My Sunday was nice and relaxing…I went for a great bike ride in the pouring rain with a 13 year old kid who is part of my family, watched some of the soccer games, washed clothes, hung out with the fam, and almost finished the seconds season of Scrubs on DVD. I’m also almost finished reading Barack Obama’s The Audacity of Hope, which makes a good conversation starter on a bus since lots of people are curious about the current politics in the US.

It was back to work on Monday. I updated the work calendar on the white board in our office that everybody references, but nobody upkeeps but me. People don´t really communicate their whereabouts very well, nor communicate when there are meeting, trainings, or workshops. So that´s why I put up the work calendar…at least it helps me out. Things were just as I had left them at the office…there was the familiar smell of cigarette smoke floating from the secretary’s office and the soft rhythmic beat of banda music emanating from my coworkers computers. The ambiance of an all-male office remains the same with their dirty jokes and constant harassing each other about being gay and how ugly one’s shirt is, talk of the latest soccer happenings in Spain, punching each other on the shoulders every two minutes, and seeing who can be the first one to beat this computer game similar to Bejeweled where a frog spits out colored balls and you have to put them in groups of three or more with the same color. Oh and some working too writing project profiles, compiling project studies, and attending to the needs of the public.

I’m finishing up the fourth municipal newsletter to go out next week, updating the database with information I've collected from the different communities relating to water and sanitation, attending various meetings and coordinating with NGOs. There is a big NGO focus on children’s issues so there a fair amount of support for projects relating to youth. One of them is the creation of a Youth Municipal Council in which they will learn about citizen participation by running a political campaign and electing their representatives, just as adults do. Within the COMUDE (Municipal Development Council) there are nine commissions that in theory work on different topics such as health, education, and finances. We are working to strengthen the COMUDE commission on women’s, children’s, and family issues by elaborating a public policy in favor of youth.

Another cool thing that has come together is that I am now coaching a girls soccer team, or at least training a group of girls aged 9-13. I had been observing a group of boys training in the afternoons in the soccer field and thought the participation of girls was lacking. So I talked to the guy who was running it and told him I wanted to train girls. So he told all his boys to tell all their sisters, cousins, and classmates to show up at the field the next day. About 14 girls showed up the first day and we had a good time. We did some dribbling drills, relay races, and scrimmaged. It all went really well and I think we’ll continue training Tuesdays and Thursdays and hopefully play games on Saturdays.

A week with my cousin!

I had the honor of hosting my first visitor from the States! I had a great time showing my cousin around a selection of places including the good tourist attractions and spots off the beaten path (2 1/2 hours off the beaten path on a dirt road to my site). We started out in Antigua, taking in the colonial architecture, old churches, ruins, yummy food, and a lively nighttime atmosphere. Highlights included a “típico” breakfast of beans, fried plantains, eggs, fresh cheese, cream, tortillas, and coffee and salsa dancing at a hip joint.

We made our way to El Chol, enjoying the greatness of what is the Guatemalan public transportation system. In my town she accompanied me to my English class where she helped me run a game of Jeopardy using vocab words and simple grammatical questions. She reminded me that “quantities” is spelled with a “q” instead of as “cuantities”, as I had written on the board for the category. That is what living in Guatemala for 10 months will do to your English. We made the trek to La Ciénega where we baked an incredibly successful batch of coffee cake that thrilled all in attendance, so much that they all wanted to take more home with them and we were left empty handed. The usual pigs, chickens, turkeys, and dogs were underfoot and the fact that that community hadn’t received water in a month and the electricity project still isn’t finished isn’t keeping them down.

She got a great taste of the local culture during a big town activity that was the election of the queen of the intermediate schools games. The event included the usual parading of young girls in elaborate “fantasy” outfits and their speeches to the public. In addition there were demonstrations of poetry reading, oratory, lip-syncing, singing, and musical groups. It’s a great opportunity to see everyone from town all gathered together in the market in their usual fashion of all the women and children sitting on the ground floor and all the men and adolescent boys leering from above on the second level. Everyone comes dressed to the nines and you can observe all the social interactions and young couples in the making with text messages flying. We had a couple fun sporty afternoons with running, soccer, and basketball with my co-workers and English students and an enjoyable experience of making a pizza from scratch (including the dough and sauce) for a couple of my co-workers that came over for dinner and cards. Everyone loved her and thought how cool it was that she wanted to visit their town and I also received lots of comments on how pretty she is and inquiries on when she would be returning.

After saying good bye to El Chol, we made our way down the construction-infested inter-American highway in a crazy bus that like to pass other buses with oncoming traffic to Lake Atitilán. We had a splendidly tranquila night in the tiny town of Santa Cruz at the awesome lakeside hostel, La Iguana Perdida. We enjoyed running into other Peace Corps volunteers, having an amazing family style dinner with 4! kinds of curry, sleeping in rustic bungalows with no electricity, and doing yoga in the morning on the patio that was open to gorgeous lake views with towering volcanoes. We scored some homemade scones with strawberry jam before catching a boat to the other side of the lake to the hopping tourist town of Panajachel. Another tranquilo day with yummy food, souvenir shopping for awesome jade and coral jewelry, a live local reggae band with good social messages, and a crazy night out dancing to thumping reggaeton music.

We hit up the giant market of Chichicastenango a little ways north of the lake where we did some browsing of the beautiful traditional woven textiles and other artisan goods. Unfortunately I got robbed for the first time after being here for 10 months. I didn’t realize at all when it happened, but when I went to get on the bus as we were leaving, the 250 Quetzales that I had had in the front pocket of my jeans were gone. That’s about 30 bucks, so it’s not that big of a deal, but it is half my rent for the month. The market was super crowded and basically a body pack in some parts, so I guess it would be fairly easy to exact the cash if that’s what you do for a living. I was pretty ticked off though. We made our way back to Antigua for our last night, enjoying a very nice traditional Guatemalan meal with chiles rellenos, pupusas, fried plantains, beans, tortillas, and cheese. All in all we had a great time “paseando” and I loved having the opportunity to share the beauty, quirks, and charm of this country with people back home.

CODEDE, trainees visit, rain

This month it was El Chol´s turn to host the CODEDE meeting, the Departmental Development Council. So all the mayors from the eight municipalities came to our town, along with representatives from all the ministries of government, NGOs, senators, and representatives from indigenous groups, women, workers, small businesses, etc. It was a super long meeting but also good to be informed as to everything that is going on. The meeting was held in a primary school just outside of town since the muni here doesn´t have a meeting place. So of course, classes were cancelled for the day since it is perfectly acceptable here to cancel class for really any reason. I got there at 6:30 in the morning to help set up and the meeting lasted until 2:30. It was long and draining. They discussed all the infrastructure projects that the Council approved and all the mayors and representatives had chances to talk and discuss, at length. After the meeting, the mayor provided a rather elaborate lunch for all in attendance with options of carne asada, seafood soup, or whole fried fish. I had the opportunity to talk with representatives from the ministries that work directly with women´s groups.

This week the newest group of Peace Corps trainees in the Youth Development Program was in El Chol for the week for their field-based training. It was fun to get to meet the newbies, spend time with them, show them my house, and give them a few tips now that I'm a ripe volunteer with six months in site under my belt. I watched some of the presentations they gave in the middle school and was impressed with their execution. It was really cool because the high school invited the whole group a dinner and dance they were having to celebrate their school´s anniversary. So we all went and ate dinner with them and attended a Guatemalan high school dance. The dancing and intermingling were fun. Good times! The next night we collaborated to put together an intercultural talent show. They did some singing, folk dances, and lip syncing. We had some people sing “Yellow Submarine” (with my guitar), do a hilarious skit, and we did our own traditional folk dance of the “Electric Slide” and then taught it to them. They all whooped and hollered as we demonstrated the dance and had a little bit of a tough time learning but there was lots of laughing throughout the whole experience. It was quite amusing and good times were had by all.

So there were a bunch of tropical storms that passed over Central America. We didn´t get hit by them, but it rained a ton and the temperature finally dropped a little. In town the streets turn to rivers and the roads leading into town become pure mud. There just isn´t the infrastructure and drainage to handle the amount of water. I washed a bunch of clothes on Saturday and they didn´t really dry til Thursday cause the air is so humid.

Half Marathon, IST, winter, Contradictions

I ran the half marathon in Cobán! (All 13.1 miles or 21 km – the second time in my life). It was super fun because there were SO MANY spectators! I've never participated in a race with such great support from the crowd. Cobán is a fairly good-sized city and the whole way all the Guatemalans were shouting at us “Ánimo! Ánimo!” and handing out water and juice and hard candies not from the official water stations, but just cause they wanted to. It makes such a huge difference to have such great support from the spectators in a race like that. Km 11-17 were pretty brutal since before the race I hadn´t trained more than 10 km, but then getting toward the end and hearing all the people, it was just one foot in front of the other, knowing that I was going to make it. The whole city was like a big carnival with a parade, food stands, and everything imaginable for sale as vendors take advantage of the influx of people. The night before they put on a pasta dinner for all the race participants and really anyone in the community who wanted to come in and eat. The pushing and shoving to get in the door to the free food was unreal. Once inside there was a gigantic table piled high with Styrofoam plates piled six high with cold pasta. Pretty impressive. There was a marimba band (like in any social celebration in Guatemala) and it made for a generally festive atmosphere. That night there was a great live band in the central park.

The one weird thing about big public events here, is that no matter how many people are gathered, there are never places to go to the bathroom. Even at the pasta dinner, which was held in a convent, there were no restrooms available. I had been drinking lots of water all day, trying to hydrate myself for the race, so I really had to pee. Sometimes stores or other places will rent out their bathroom for one or two quetzales, so I found a “hotel” right off the park that was renting out theirs. I paid the woman, and she directed me down below. When I entered the hallway, it because apparent this was not an overnight type hotel but rather an hourly hotel with row upon row of tiny little numbered red doors. It was a creepy experience and I was relieved in more ways that one to get out of there.

Recently we had our Peace Corps In-Service Training where all of us from the Municipal Development Program got together with our counterparts for three days in the PC office in Santa Lucia. My counterpart had to go to Honduras for another training that week so I brought another coworker from the office with me. It was funny with the dynamic between all the volunteers and their counterparts. We were all together during the day listening to hours of PowerPoint presentations, but didn’t hang out together in Antigua at night. As always it was great to see all my friends and here about what’s going on in their sites in such various parts of the country.

The workshops in the high school have been going well. It’s nice to feel like I’m accomplishing something tangible and directly related to my program goals. The last time we talked about different ways citizens can get involved in their government. I gave them scenarios of hypothetical problems in the community that they had to make skits of to solve using one of the manners of citizen participation. It went really well, but I told them 5 minutes max for their skits and some groups took 20 minutes because Guatemalans have an amazing ability to talk forever.

The municipal newsletter that I put together has been going really well. We get lots of positive responses from it. Last issue covered what is the COMUDE, the interscholastic games, convocatory of teachers positions, an informe about one of the NGOs, a new systems the treasury’s office is using to increase financial transparency, among other notices.

Every month we gather all the institutions and NGOs that work in El Chol for an interinstitutional meeting. This month my counterpart couldn’t be there, so I had to run the meeting. Now that I've been here long enough, I've figured out the protocols of running a meeting in Guatemala. It went really well and we got a lot accomplished.

Well, “winter” here has started…meaning the rainy season. It will rain many afternoons and the streets turn to rivers for lack of good drainage. The dirt roads turn to mud and traveling around become more difficult. The water pours off my tin roof in great quantities. Talking on the phone in my house is impossible due to the noise it makes. A giant frog the size of a kitten lives behind my pila. You have to strategically wash clothes in the morning so they dry before the afternoon. Everyone at the office was fascinated by my red Marmot rain jacket. I broke down and bought an umbrella.

So I love living here, but of course I have my bad days when I just hate everything about this place too. It’s funny because the aspects that I love about Guatemala are also the things I can’t stand about it. It’s really a big contradiction for me. For instance…

· I love how family oriented they are here, but I can’t stand how they can’t be independent and how mothers will do their sons´ cooking and laundry til they get married, no matter how old that is.

· I love how people are so generous with their money and belongings, but I hate how they are so irresponsible with it too.

· I love how people don’t focus on accomplishments and getting things done and they enjoy their time leisurely, but I hate how nothing ever gets done and takes forever.

· I love how in a small town everyone greets you in the street, but I hate how people are always in your business and gossiping.

· I love that they use lots of natural remedies for their health, but I hate all the untrue superstitions like how pregnant women shouldn´t drink too much water.

· I love that everyone watches out for you, but I hate how you feel like you can’t do anything without everyone knowing about it.

· I love all the rich cultural traditions, but I hate how everyone is afraid of change and taking risks.